Hovea Quilt Coat

I finally wanted to make myself a quilted coat. I had planned that for the QuiltCon 2022 in Phoenix. So less than a month before this year’s QuiltCon sounded like a great starting point *insert eye-roll*

At least I had the templates printed on A0 paper already. It cost a few extra bucks, but I am pleased that I did not have to print all the pages and glue them together.

You might know, that I am “only” a quilter. When was the last time I sewed clothes? I can’t remember – probably a good 20 to 25 years ago. And no, I did not have any know-how then either – I just winged it – the innocence of youth ;)

So I asked a friend, who is pretty good at that, to help me make a mock-up and give me some tips. I had saved an old velvet curtain which was the closest fabric in thickness to quilted panels I could find – without investing considerably.

We started with measurements. According to the pattern I was supposed to sew a size 22. That sounded big but was the correct column for my hip measurements. Well, let me just say the mock-up was huge!

So we decided that I needed probably two sizes smaller – and a lot less length, overall and in the sleeves. Now it was my job to unstitch everything and resew my mock-up with the new templates.

Well, you did guess right if you figured it took me two weeks to get motivated for that ;)

That jacket was a way better fit but I still felt like I was needing a size smaller. With no more time and willingness to make another version of my mock-up, I decided to just start the real version in that size and hope for the best. *fingers crossed*

So on February 11th, ten days before my flight, I started to sew my patchwork elements. On Sunday evening I had all parts pieced and roughly cut out as well as the first ones quilted. But then I stalled again. I am not a big sewist on work evenings. So my next big chance was Friday the 17th, which I used to procrastinate, cleaning up some sewing supplies. Duuhh, it so felt like self-sabotage!

But Saturday I kicked my own butt and finished quilting the last panels and cutting them out to the exact shape. It was a bit friggely to align all quilted seam lines and patchwork elements but it was doable. I just messed up my initial pocket placement – left is now right and vice versa :)

Everyone advised me to prewash the quilted panels. But I use Warm & White which has a rather low shrinkage and I prewashed all fabrics – the Essex linen for the outside and the flannel for the lining. Also, I opted to quilt oversized panels to account for shrinkage due to quilting and then trim to exact template size after. I am hoping this will work out whenever I need to wash it. *fingers crossed*

Sewing the pieces together is easy enough. And using a walking foot all over was perfect. As I am used to working with a foot with a guide, I simply “built” my own guide for the 5/8″ seam allowance ;)

The hardest part was adding the sleeves in where the side and sleeve seams connected. I also admit I was afraid of the binding part. I googled how to cut it. Here are the favorites of what I found: Written tutorial including pictures and a video tutorial. Besides the arm scythe it was easy

I finished the last stitches the evening before my flight and got the pictures of the finished jacket with the help of friends on the first day of QuiltCon. How is that for “last minute” ;)

I hope I am allowed to say so myself: I am really proud of this quilted coat! And I enjoyed wearing it at QuiltCon.

Did you ever make a quilt coat? What was your biggest tip?

Best wishes
xo Melanie

So far this quarter …